I still remember the events like it was yesterday. Our family decided to go enjoy the experience of IL Palio well, because after all, our daughter is named for the city of Siena! So here was our plan: Visit the city prior to the event and make a strategy for enjoying the culminating day. It was Saturday. We visited the city and walked to many shops. Then, had the idea to talk to the concierge at Hotel Duomo, the last place we stayed when we visited 12 years ago. Excellent idea! He gave us a map of the city of Siena, showed us the parade route the day of IL Palio plus he explained all of the festivities of the week leading up to the event. He was encyclopedic, he was Sienese, enough said! The biggest two pieces of advice he gave us were: Tuesday before the horse race is a big day of horse assignments to each Contrada riding in the race, and the day of IL Palio the gates restrict access to viewing the parade and race at exactly, 4:30. So, we were off. We walked to Piazza Il Campo, the main square, the site of the horse race. You could feel the excitement building as Il Campo was already prepared for the race. The center of the space had baracades circling it ready for the spectators. the stands were put together all around the outer ring and the racetrack was coated in many new layers of powdery, dirt to protect those powerful, fragile horse hooves.
We decided where we were going to stand to watch it all, how we were going to handle potty breaks (no drinking anything...), how we would bring a cooler filled with fruit and sandwiches. I was nervous about the heat though, and wished, just wished there was an alternative. Sitting in the stands would cost $250 per person...not in the plan! So, standing in the hot Tuscan sun would have to suffice, Jeez... Once our plan was in place, we decided to go to dinner. Needless to say, we had a great meal, made a new friend in our waiter, Edward, and had some limoncello.
After dinner, we walked around the city and stumbled upon a curious, charming salumeria ( a factory, shop of various cured meats and cheeses). But this one was charming! It had a wild boar's head hanging out front and beautiful colors and delectable aromas. It's name: al Palazzo della Chigiana owned by Antonio De Miccoli. check out their site: www.anticapiazzacheriachigiana.it !
We were tired and acting very silly. Then it happened! This charming woman wearing a pretty green dress turns to us and says "where are you from" in the most familiar US English words I had heard in weeks. It was Debi! We got to talking about everything but most importantly, the Palio. Debi told us things we never would have known. Incidently, she has a guide service she recently introduced: www.italyunfiltered.com . It is a service which helps visitors see and experience the beauty of Italy. Debi introduced us to the Owner, Antonio, a businessman with a well-styled mustache. He met Siena and said "Here is a cookie, it is yours because your name is Siena, I love you already". It was time to go back to Volterra and then, Massimilli, one of the ever talented butchers, uttered to Debi, five precious words "The apartment is still available". I came to know two things: the apartment is the place from which the Palio can be viewed and Massi is Debi's boyfriend. We recognized the possibility and were very Elated! Debi mentioned her bestfriend, Suzi, an art teacher, would be arriving very soon to join her and we thought this would be a magnificent alternative. We made plans to return to town on Tuesday.
Before arriving to Siena on Tuesday, I did some research and found out a few things about Il Palio! The Race is run twice a year: July 2nd and August 16th. It has been an historical horse race that dates back to August 16, 1656. It has historic, medieval charm and is still conducted with all seriousness and competitive spirit as it was long ago. It is a race run in honor of the miraculous works of the Virgin Mary for the city of Siena. The 16th is the day after the Feast of the Assumption, the date of which Mary was to have ascended into heaven and now a holiday for businesses. The winner of the race wins what they call the Palio. A gorgeous, handmade flag that depicts the Virgin Mary overseeing the city with all of it's contrade. A brilliant trophy! Now, contrade are sections of the city that are each full of their own unique pride and glory. Siena has 17 contradas, each represented by an animal from air, land or sea. The horse race is run with only 10 of these contrade; 7 by right, 3 drawn by lot. That gives way to our visit on Tuesday, the day the horses are run in trials, measured for safety and health then, assigned by lottery to the respective 10 contrade.
So, Tuesday came and we drove to Siena to watch the process of horse selection and feel the energy of the city. It was astounding. We ironically ran into Debi and met her bestie Suzi behind the same stands from which we were peeking at the horse trials. We decided to go for lunch at the Salumeria and visit Il Campo for the final horse allocation.
We enjoyed our alfresco lunch and an amazing thing happened!
Men from a contrada began walking en mass toward IL Campo singing thunderously with pride and brotherhood! It was time for the horse selection to begin. We were jarred with excitement. I could feel goosebumps. It seems all the contrada join together in this way to enter the Il Campo to show their allegience to their neighborhood, their contrada. It is superstition that the contrada which sings the loudest has the ear of Mary and may be favored to win. Perhaps!
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