Girasole/ Sunflower.... Turn to the Sun.

   Hmm girasole, which is Italian. It quite literally means turn to the sun. But in everyday life, it means Sunflower. But I want to suggest the notion behind girasole in it's simple literal sense. To turn to the sun is to turn your whole self, barring nothing, to the light which nurtures us and helps us to fulfill our potential and full growth. And when basking in this fullness of light, we bloom in full glory with effortless beauty. Isn't this what we strive for? Whoa!  Umm yes, but we didn't know it! The product is so beautiful and attractive to us all, yes? This is why looking out onto a field of sunflowers is so awe inspiring!

          In looking at life's daily plans. Our labors of necessity and of love, I have noticed across many cultures that which is so common. In speaking with so many new friends here in Val D'Orcia, some native others from other countries, I am humbled by their words, reminded though across so many different cultures how similar we all are. Delightful! How we have common issues globally to conquer and then to make progress. The earth needs to glow again. We all are equipped to naturally turn to the sun.

          We have had the pleasure of meeting a vivacious, expressive, native, Italian opera singer, Livio and his talented musician/ performer wife, Jurine, while we have stayed here in Val D'Orcia. They reside in Holland but are here on Holiday. They have invited us to visit Holland in the future, a blessing. We exchanged much conversation about world events and more importantly, the effects of the human imprint on the future of our planet, physically and creatively. How an abandonment and lack of respect for culture, arts and love for antiquity can be the epitome of societal disaster. We went on to discuss political and capitalistic activity which has supported anti-human causes, like GMOs. Mind you, this is not my usual conversation, usually I speak of architecture, language, gardening, & cooking.  All this heavy conversation spoken on a patio, in front of an 18 th century villa, eating homemade delectable croissants and sweet homemade marmalades of fig and of peach with artisan cheeses and meats, fresh chocolate or peach tortes, punctuated with a steamy cappuccino while a Tuscan breeze blows over the hill to keep us cool and content. WOW! A dream. But the reality of it all is it is quite humbling. We have the power, as humans to illuminate our future. To make it bright, for lack of better cliché. We also have the ability to make our futures quite dark and dead. Our choice.

Walter our host and accomplished Chef at Fattoria La Palazzina

                                                    Truly food for thought!

Il Palio 2 Luglio 2015 Siena, Italy

     And the winner of the bareback horserace is... Torre! The contrada of the tower with an elephant as it's represented animal! The celebrating was uproarishly loud and attractive in that the people of the contrada were so dedicated and were now the proud winners of the coveted prize: the Palio, an artfully, crafted flag depicting the Virgin Mary, mother of Jesus, overlooking the competing contradas in the race. Of course, parading around, celebrating and singing with your winning horse in tow for weeks following the victory can be a Sienese prize all it's own!  (Other neighboring cities might even call it "Pazzo" or Crazy) 

                                 

This year, we had the fortune of our dear friend, Deborah Larsen and her new Siena-based tour business named Italy Unfiltered. Deborah made careful plans to find us a fantastic balcony-view of all the regalia of what is Il Palio which began at approximately 4:30 pm. From the opening ceremonies of the parades in Il Campo to the 

mind-bending wait for the jockey's to get into position with their wild horses and start on the short, 90-second race. Still, it was all a thrill and well worth the experience of such a medieval tradition. We loved Il Palio once again!

     It is now that I am realizing so much. Having gone to watch Il Palio a second time with my family, I am overjoyed at the experiences we've had. And on a personal level, there have been slightly hidden messages. Two days prior, we were invited to visit the Civetta (owl) contrada for dinner in celebration of the upcoming horserace.  For many, the owl is a symbol of wisdom. For me, I feel like this visit to Toscana is one of truth and wisdom as well. Like we have taken what we learned last visit and are using our experiences as a navigational tool. I failed to mention in previous blogs out of embarrassment and frustration maybe, that we made so many mistakes in our elongated visit to Tuscany last trip: parking tickets, zona traffico Limitado violations, language not fully learned, and friendships left underdeveloped. I have come to understand that what I needed to have was in fact the wisdom of an owl. Wisdom to recognize that life needs to be light. Learning but trying not to be so rough and hard on myself with cruel expectations. When you take life more lightly, you get to know yourself better in joy.

     With the joy and pride of the contradas in Siena, I learned to celebrate life, grab ahold of love when it comes and hold it dear without restraint and control but with kind reverence for it's nature. This is the Pura Dolce Vida! Ahh right!

We have arrived in joy. In appreciation. In the spirit of friendship, love, respect and calm. We have returned from Costa Rica to Toscana and found how much we were were missed, loved and honored while we were gone. It has shown in the actions and words of our dear friends in Volterra, Costa Rica and beyond. Grateful!

Should anyone want to take in Siena with it's surrounding countryside in sheer bliss, contact Deborah Larsen for an experience like no other, Italy Unfiltered.

Italy UNFILTERED! | Experience the True Essence and Soul of Italy

italyunfiltered.com/

Welcome To Italy Unfiltered! Fall in love with life, come experience Italy and enliven your senses. Tired of sitting on tour buses? Coming home frazzled and tired, ...

      

1.      

The Contrada Dinner/ Il cena dei un contrada!

Wow, we did it!! We made it back to Tuscany after months of planning and communications. This time it will be a shorter visit but filled with so much adventure and time with old friends.....

       With only our second day in, we hit the ground running,  jet-lagged and driving toward Siena! We had the fortune of Lele, a dear friend to offer us his apartment in Volterra while we get settled and ready to go to our first home exchange location in Val d'orcia.

       We visited Siena with the help of Deborah Larsen and her friends Anisa with Eugenio. You see, we were planning to join one contrada to celebrate the upcoming Palio by attending their lovely dinner.  As mentioned in a pervious posting, Il Palio is the centuries old 90-second, bareback horserace that takes place twice each summer in Siena.

       I must say, we had a fabulous time. But I felt like a spy setting up a secret meeting place to get tickets from a gentleman of the Contrada, Civetta (the owl contrada) . We had a meeting time and special spot nearby the pillar in Piazza Tolomei. I was informed by Anisa, that it is not often that tourists are welcomed into this contrada. It was a special honor to be welcomed there. Nevertheless, the contrada dinner went on, a bit late, close to 9:45 as there was a brawl that broke out in Il Campo the city square, between members of this contrada and their rival, the unicorn contrada. ( not so uncommon). When we arrived, we witnessed contrada members...men, women and children. donning banderas around their necks that represent the colors and symbolic animal, Civetta. So much pride!  So glad we remembered to wear contrada colors: black and red rather than their rival's colors orange and white. The tables were being set for the evening as they had all walked from the city center after watching a trial run of the horserace. Excitement is building for the big race day on Thursday!  During the meal comprised of penne arrabiata, penned Bianco, Rosemaried potatoes and pork roast with rosemary and finishing with creamy canoli desserts, we could not help but feel loved with homemade chianti all around and singing men and women so passionate about this traditional competitive time! What a joy! What an experience! We hope the Civetta win tomorrow!

 

as we were seated, we introduced ourselves to many of the residents of the Civette contrada. They were very nice but curious how we were invited. We explained that Eugenio invited us and provided us with our tickets. Turns out, Eugenio is a well known restauranteur in the city. There were no questions after that. Whew!

As the dinner went on, we got to know a local family doctor, Antonio. He was friendly and shared many stories with us!

Our last days in Italy/ Nuestro giourni finale in Italia

        I am emerging from my denial. I do not want this story to end. It was a tale, an experience, a life played out that was full of dreams and adventure. The fact that it is now 10 months since we left Italy and I am finally getting to describe our last days in Volterra shows how so hard it was to say goodbye. For the friends and families we had come to know in Italy we dedicate this entry to you in gratitude of your good will and hospitality for us. We miss you immensely!

        The last days of living, eating and breathing in Volterra, we were left in shock, almost mentally-ill prepared to leave the "flying land" of Tuscany. I walked the streets. Visited the farmer's markets, local butcher and bakery. I walked like a little girl running her hand on the textured walls of antiquity trying to savor the feelings with all my senses while engaging the memories and love we felt while living there. I began saying goodbye to friends and going for " last meals" with people whom we got to know as family friends. The last favorite meal was with a family named Vangelisti! They had us over for dinner and our usual that we loved to do after dinner and dessert...dancing to 70's and 80's songs that we had so much in common even though as children we grew up in worlds, nations apart. We found common ground. We embraced it and our children watched and benefitted from it. Our daughters were the same age and our hearts were joined! When we finished dancing and turned down the loud music, ( you know, because the now multiple apartments which once made up a family palazzo of Alabaster producers, the Sarperi family still housed extended family at every turn.. uncles up above, cousins next door) we had to turn the music down out of respect for the elders a floor above. We punctuated our evening with a group photo which I will treasure. Photo forthcoming....

      The day before our move out day, was the performance day of Siena's public school, Scuola di San Lino, ( named for the second Roman Catholic Pope, Linus, who was born and raised on the main road in which we lived and the school set itself upon). The children were to perform several dances and sing. The most awesome thing about their performance is that they were going to display their talents in the town theatre that sits below the Palazzo Viti, The Persio Flacco Theatre. Yes, an ancient exciting theatre with tall, red-velvet curtains restrained with hand-made, tassled tie-backs. Adorned with balustrades and plush seating and balconies that went 5 stories high. And in traditional architecture with the series of balconies surrounding the focal point, the stage and designed in the shape of a U. I had extreme excitement as we knew our daughter was set to perform songs and dances in Italian on an ancient stage. Pride did not cover our emotions.

Siena and Big bro Grant walking to the Persio Flacco Theatre

 Siena: her best smooth criminal looks

 

Our Family waiting for the show to begin!

      Following the performance, the children enjoyed a feast of a reception below ground. In a place called Cisterna ( a former cistern and underground passageway from one part of town to the other, now an underground restaurant and disco for teens). What an excellent way to end our stay than at a party with almost everyone we'd come to know in Volterra. But just before the reception, something happened. My dear friend, Frederica Sarperi, mother of my daughter's buddy, Alessia leaned in and hugged me saying, "well, this is it, I am not sure if I will ever see you again...." I most certainly burst into tears, uncontrollably. I tried to wipe my eyes as I walked around and individually hugged and kissed all the children and their parents who had been so welcoming and  kind to our family. It was real, we were leaving Volterra and headed to Spain on exchanges. We were the Americans whom the city had embraced and loved. We were newer children of the medieval city walls leaving to return to our place of tropical residence, Costa Rica. Certainly, we were not ready to leave.

La Cisterna! 

Luisa (one of Siena's teachers) saying farewell!

Siena & Marta!

        And here I am now, April, 2015, finishing this saga with the new information that we have an exchange lined up for a return visit to Toscana this summer. We are going to stay in the oldest historical quarter in Firenze for a week and then at their family agriturismo further south in Val d'Orca for another week. Then, onto Lucca and a visit to Paris. I have mentioned to Volterran friends we will be coming and already the excitement is building. Our Italian friends are anxiously awaiting our return. What a great feeling of community! We are planning to see at least one more Palio in Siena with our sweet friends, Debi and Massi and we are overjoyed to have the chance to visit those places we just did not quite get to. I have optimism and hope that our Italian speaking daughter, Siena, will always have a home in Volterra. My heart is forever changed in Pura Dolce Vita.  Viva Italia!